Rasht Travelogue

A view of the forest from a local cafe window, Masuleh

It was a nice afternoon, low power sun on the leafs of Schefflera was a royal scene. A cup of tea and sound of Saxophone in the background convinced me this is the most relaxing afternoon I’ve ever had. I just started to listening to a Persian podcast (Radio Deev) at the time. I played the 8th episode, it’s name was : “Tomorrow the sky of Rasht is rainy” the seek bar indicator was in the middle of it’s way which I told my self : I’m going to Rasht.

The folk music, sound of local markets , those poems, they all was like a powerful magic. The decision was made, I had to go, so I started to share the idea with my friends, you know a lonely trip does not seem fun (at first). The trip started to teach me stuff at the decision level. I guess there is no better teacher than a trip. My friends who were supposed to be with me in the trip canceled the plan for their own personal reasons, I was expecting myself to cancel the trip but for a moment I thought myself, why? surprisingly I felt deeply inside I need to be alone. I should do it alone. Deep inside human kind is alone. Most of the times we can’t see ourselves in crowd, I strongly believe we all need a time for nothing and nobody.

You should feel it by heart

I traveled to the Rasht, Masuleh, Lahijan and Fuman. All the trip was amazing and fresh but it’s not possible to write down the beauty of it. It’s a feeling at the moment. so true, so present, so beautiful and I guess it’s the soul of travelling. That’s the reason you should be there yourself to feel it. actually I tried but I failed when you write it, it seems super ordinary. “I was feeling the drops of clouds on my skin.” but you can’t feel it. Use your imagination but it’s not fucking enough. It’s impossible. You should experience it yourself. I was walking around in the pure nature a dog started to follow me and she was playing around with joy and she was following me. I never saw a dog that happy. You wouldn’t understand this. You should feel it and you should be there to feel it.


Rasht is alive. That’s the best description for this city. You can feel life every corner. Food is amazing. People seem happy, most of the people are so good looking it’s easy to understand they really care about their appearance and clothes. They just live, they don’t care much about future, they buy good cloth, they eat great foods. It’s a lovely texture of everything but to be honest Rasht still is not the heaven some people try to show. You can still see around and understand problems, poverty and irresponsibility.

A closed cinema at Rasht

And don’t ever miss Rasht cafes, be sure you try “beens with Olive oil” for breakfast. Smell of Olive oil makes insane and you can’t believe how delicious beans can be. Oh and remember to keep some cash in your pocket a lot of local stores in Rasht don’t have a POS.

Beans with Olives oil and Olives itself 🙂

Torabi’s House

Torabi’s house is where I met Koroush and Sina. Sina is really cool, so funny and friendly. Koroush is a lovely photographer, he is an art guy. And he read novel every monday and tuesday at 07:00 PM at Torabi’s house. “Where is this Torabi’s house anyway?” you may ask. And I will answer : “They call it Dream House”. A historical cute house which has been saved from destruction.

Torabi’s house yard
Koroush paintings

I met lovely and cool guys at Torabi’s house. We talked about the trip and drank delicious tea together.


Masuleh was the nature I never believed it really exists. I was thinking it’s just in movies. In real life we can not see these forest or clouds among tress on mountains. For me it was a true dream. It was dreamy. I slept one night in Masuleh I walked, I climbed. I touched it to understand it. To accept it. I hugged it to believe it’s true.

Sad part was the reality that tourism was completely fucked the local people life. Locals income was not from the farming or livestock. They rent their houses to the passengers. That’s how they make money. The crowd make lot’s of noise and population so locals may decide to leave and rent their houses for a relax life and money.

Funny story, only with 15 min of walking you can be in a place with no other human being. It seems people just need a place to take their stupid selfies and leave. They don’t explore the environment. They don’t have the soul.


Lahijan is a lost soul which belongs to a wise king. That’s how I call Lahijan. Maybe fame doesn’t just fuck character of humans but also fucks cities. I couldn’t find the coziness and intimacy of Rasht in Lahijan.

I spend a lot of my time in Hotel because I was tired and the entering nigh in Lahijan was depressing. The next morning I went to the Sheykh Zahed Gilani Mosque and it changed everything. Tea farms was around me. Every deep breath was a gift, So refreshing.

I really encourage you for a lonely trip. You will never forget it.

3 thoughts on “Rasht Travelogue”

  1. Great job dude,hope to read soon about ur next Khafan trip.please try adventure one;)

  2. Thank you very much dear ali. Glad to meet you in Gilan and thank you for writing about Torabi house. I hope to see you again.

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