Rasht Travelogue

A view of a forest from a local cafe window, Masuleh

A nice afternoon, low light on the leafs of Schefflera was a royal scene. A cup of tea and sound of Saxophone in the background convinced me this is the most relaxing afternoon I’ve ever had. I had just started to listen to a Persian podcast (Radio Deev) at the time. I played the 8th episode, the name was : “Tomorrow the sky of Rasht is rainy” the seek bar indicator was in the middle of it’s way which I told my self : I’m going to Rasht.

The folk music, the sound of local markets , those poems, they all was like a powerful magic. The decision was made, I had to go, so I started to share the idea with my friends, a lonely trip does not seem fun (at first). The trip started to teach me lessons at the decision level. I guess there is not a better teacher than a trip. My friends who were supposed to be with me in the trip canceled the plan for their own personal reasons, I was expecting myself to cancel the trip but for a moment I thought myself, why? surprisingly I felt deeply inside I need to be alone. I should do it alone. Deep inside, human kind is alone. Most of the times we can’t see ourselves in crowd (Human loses its ego in the society and finds itself alone), I strongly believe we all need a time for nothing and nobody.

You should feel it by heart

I traveled to Rasht, Masuleh, Lahijan and Fuman. All the trip was amazing and fresh but it’s not possible to write down the beauty of it. It’s a feeling at the moment. so true, so present, so beautiful and I guess it’s the soul of travelling. That’s the reason you should be there yourself to feel it. It seems super ordinary. “I was feeling the drops of clouds on my skin.” but you can’t feel it. Use your imagination but it’s not enough. It’s impossible. You should experience it yourself. I was walking around in the pure nature, a dog started to follow me and she was playing around with joy, she was following me. I never saw a dog that happy. These words are powerless, you can’t understand the feeling I’m talking about. You should feel it and you should be there to feel it.


Rasht is alive. That is the best description for this city. You can feel life at every corner. Food is amazing, People seem happy. Most of the people are good looking, They care about their appearance and clothes. They just live, they don’t care much about future, they buy good clothes, they eat great foods. It’s a lovely texture of everything. To be honest Rasht still is not the heaven some people try to show. You can still look around and figure out problems, poverty and government irresponsibility.

A closed cinema at Rasht

Don’t ever miss Rasht cafes, be sure you try “beens with Olive oil” for breakfast. Smell of Olive oil makes you insane and you can’t believe how delicious beans can be. Oh! remember to keep some cash in your pocket, a lot of local stores in Rasht don’t accept credit cards.

Beans with Olives oil and Olives itself 🙂

Torabi’s House

Torabi’s house is where I met Koroush and Sina. Sina is really cool, so funny and friendly. Koroush is a lovely photographer, he is an art guy. He read novel every monday and tuesday at 07:00 PM at Torabi’s house. “Where is this Torabi’s house anyway?” you may ask. I will answer : “They call it Dream House”. A historical cute house which has been saved from destruction.

Torabi’s house yard
Koroush paintings

I met lovely and cool guys at Torabi’s house. We talked about the trip and drank delicious tea together.


Masuleh is the nature I never believed it really exists. I was thinking it’s just in movies. In real life we can not see these forest or clouds through the trees and mountains. For me, it was a true dream. It was dreamy. I slept one night in Masuleh.

Sad part is the reality that tourism seems like a pain in the ass for the local people lives just as it helps them to earn some cash. Locals income is not from the farming or livestock. They rent their houses to the passengers. That’s how they make money. The crowd make lot’s of noise and population so locals may decide to leave and rent their houses and migrate for a relax life.

Funny story : only with 15 minutes of walking, you can be in a place with no other human being. Pure nature, It seems people just need a place to take their stupid selfies, eat some crap and leave. They don’t explore the environment. They don’t own the spirit.


Lahijan is a lost soul which belongs to a wise oldman. That’s how I call Lahijan. Maybe fame doesn’t just fuck humans character but also fucks cities. I couldn’t find the coziness and intimacy of Rasht in Lahijan.

I spent most of my time in Hotel, I was tired and the first night in Lahijan was frustrating. Next morning I left my room to the Sheykh Zahed Gilani Mosque, It changed everything. Tea farms was around me. Every deep breath was a gift, So refreshing.

I really encourage you to a lonely trip. You will never forget it.